Albania wasn’t somewhere I knew much about before visiting, but after a week travelling from Tirana to Valbona and Theth, it quickly became one of my favourite trips in Europe. From lively city streets and Cold War bunkers to breathtaking alpine hikes, this 7-day route is packed with history, culture, and natural beauty.

Here’s my day-by-day travel diary and guide, filled with practical tips, costs, and honest reflections to help you plan unforgettable Albania holidays.

Day One | Tirana Airport – Tirana

I arrived into Tirana International Airport (TIA) around 10 a.m., ready to start my Albanian journey.

Upon arrival, I sourced a local SIM card. Albania isn’t part of the EU, so most networks charge expensive roaming rates. Therefore, I highly recommend acquiring one from one of the several kiosks outside the airport.

After acquiring a SIM card, I caught the airport bus to Tirana Central Station. This bus runs every hour and will take you into the heart of the city in about 30 minutes for €4 (card accepted).

Once I reached Tirana, I withdrew cash from a Union Bank ATM (€5 transaction fee) located here. While Tirana is mostly card-friendly, you’ll need cash when heading north, so it’s worth taking out enough for the trip.

The rest of the day was all about soaking up the city: lunch inside Tirana’s Castle walls, a stroll through Skanderbeg Square, climbing the Pyramid of Tirana, and finishing the afternoon with a walk around Tirana Lake. I ended my day with dinner at a cosy local restaurant and my first taste of Albanian hospitality.

Tip: Most major sights are within walking distance of Skanderbeg Square, making it easy to explore on foot.

Day Two | Tirana

Although I left the city on Day 2, in hindsight I wish I’d stayed longer. There’s much to see in Tirana, so an extra day would provide the perfect balance between city exploration and cultural discovery.

Start your morning at Bunk’Art 1, a huge Cold War-era underground bunker turned museum. It provides a fascinating and eerie insight into Albania’s communist past, with preserved rooms, exhibits, and art installations.

Right next to Bunk’Art 1 is the Dajti Ekspres cable car, which traverses Mount Dajti for panoramic views of the city and countryside. At the top, you’ll find breathtaking views, a restaurant, and a plethora of outdoor activities.

Getting there: You can take a local bus, but Tirana’s traffic can be slow. If you enjoy walking, the journey takes around an hour from Tirana Central Station.

Day Three | Tirana – Valbona

Day 3 started with an early 5 a.m. bus ride from Gazheli Petrol Station to the mountains of Valbona Valley. I stayed at Vila Panto, just a short walk away, which made the early start manageable. Tickets cost €40 and I would recommend booking online in advance.

From there, the route takes you through the Albanian countryside to Koman, where you board the famous Komani Ferry. This three-hour boat ride winds through narrow canyons and emerald-green water, easily one of the most scenic ferry rides in Europe.

After the ferry, a connecting bus takes you into the Valbona Valley, dropping you near your accommodation. I stayed at Bujtina Brahim, which was affordable, friendly, and offered incredible views. For something more upscale, Valbona Resort & Spa is only a few minutes away.

Although Valbona is surrounded by spectacular mountains, the main reason to visit is the 13.5 km hike to Theth, so one night here is usually enough.

Tip: Arrive early at the petrol station. My ticket said 5:30 a.m., but the bus left promptly at 5:00am. Bring food and water as the ferry and buses have limited options.

Day Four | Valbona – Theth

This was the highlight of the trip. The Valbona–Theth trail is a 13.5 km trek through Albania’s spectacular alpine landscape.

I set off early in the morning to avoid crowds, and the hike took around five hours. There are three to four small cafés along the route serving drinks and snacks (a welcome surprise in such a remote area). The hike isn’t technically difficult but does require a decent level of fitness due to several steep sections.

After arriving in Theth, I stayed in a guesthouse overlooking the valley. The views were stunning, but it sat atop a 30–40 minute uphill climb from the main village. While locals often offer rides, I’d recommend staying closer to Theth Bridge, as it’s flatter, easier to reach, and better located for the next day’s hike and bus pickup.

Day Five | Theth

If the Valbona–Theth hike is the main attraction, then the Blue Eye Pool (Syri i Kaltër) is the second. It’s about a three-hour hike from Theth, following rivers and forest trails until you reach the crystal-clear turquoise pool.

The route is mostly downhill, so I’d recommend walking there and catching a minibus back for around €5, saving you the long uphill return.

Tip: Bring swimwear if you’re brave – the Blue Eye is icy cold even in summer!

Day Six | Theth – Tirana

Today marked the start of my journey back to the city. I caught the 11 a.m. bus from Theth (departing near Theth Bridge) to Tirana for €30, arriving around 4 p.m.

Once back in Tirana, I checked into my accommodation and visited Bunk’Art 2, located in the city centre. While the topic was fascinating, some of the translations were a bit rough, which slightly detracted from the experience.

Tip: If you have extra time, consider stopping in Shkodër, many travellers spend a night or two there before heading back to Tirana. Buses run direct between Theth, Skhoder and Tirana.

Day Seven | Tirana – Tirana Airport

My final morning in Albania started with a relaxed breakfast before catching the return airport bus from Tirana Central Station and flight home.

Final Thoughts

Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Albania. It’s a country that genuinely surprised me – full of natural beauty, fascinating history and some of the friendliest people I’ve met while travelling. From lively city streets to peaceful mountain trails, Albania offers a little bit of everything, and it’s somewhere I’ll definitely be re-visiting soon.

In total, I spent around €400 for the week, which felt like excellent value:

• €120 on accommodation (shared with a friend)
• €140 on food
• €80 on transport
• €60 on activities and extras

I visited in June, when Tirana was basking in 30°C+ heat. Although it was hot in the city, the mountains were cooler and clear-skied, offering perfect hiking conditions. For most travellers, the best time to visit is June to September, when the weather is warm, trails are open, and the country is at its most vibrant.

One issue that stood out, particularly in the north, was the rubbish problem. Litter can often be seen along roadsides and near popular hiking routes, which is a real shame given how naturally beautiful the landscape is. Hopefully, as tourism grows and infrastructure improves, this is something that will continue to change for the better.

Albania might still be a hidden gem, but it’s one filled with heart, history, and hospitality — and I can’t wait to see how it evolves in the years to come.

Looking for more inspiration? Check out my other travel blogs.